31 thoughts on “How-To Video: Tim Holtz Crackle Paint” Louise says: April 12, 2008 at 11:57 pm Beautiful and informative. I love that photo too! Thanks for that very helpful video. I just got some crackle paint, and wasn’t sure I was using it right. And that layout is so awesome, too. Simply done, but it has pizzazz!!!

Crackle paint techniques vary and depending on what type effect you are trying to acheive and will help to determine the process you will want to use. Here are 3 popular techniques to consider.

Porcelain The porcelain effect looks like old porcelain china. To achieve this effect, you will buy porcelain crackle glaze at a paint store or home improvement store. You can also buy this glaze at craft stores in smaller quantities if you are crackle painting something small, like a picture frame or lamp.

Use a paintbrush to apply using thin zigzag strokes to get an even crackle. Weathered Weathered crackle glaze will have larger cracks and give you the effect of old wood. You will need to buy weathered crackle glaze for this project, and the glaze with a paint roller as opposed to a paintbrush as used in the porcelain effect. This will give you a heavier coat that will give you larger cracks. Glue Method A really easy way to trying the crackling effect is to use regular white glue! Apply it with a sponge and finish with a topcoat of paint.

The glue will keep the top coat from adhering to the top coat and it will crack giving you the crackle effect. This is good for a smaller project. Be sure to spray some clear coat on after it has dried to hold the glue on your piece.

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I've only ever used crackle medium at a larger scale. While the effect can be controlled, to a degree (thickness of application, usually, determines the tightness of the crackle pattern), it's random by nature. I'd anticipate a lot of trial and error before you got exactly what you wanted. Crackle medium won't necessarily give you the lifting and peeling effect present in that picture, either - the differential shrinkage that causes the cracks to form is in one plane, so any bubbling or curling is a chance occurrence. I almost feel like manually applying a pattern of scratches and chips using the hairspray method would be more practical, laborious as it would be. Sponging on the topcoat with near-full coverage would be a faster option, but the effect would be somewhat less convincing. I never used a product intended for it, but I have done cracked armor.

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On this terminator I did: - black basecoat - red gore to rough out the blocks - then I worked the highlights up through scab red, blood red, blood angels red - washed in chestnut and red washes - highlighted some more along the edges. You just kind of create your own 3D with them, so you don't really highlight all of the edges of each block, just imagine which edge might be raised and hit that one. Now, my example was ceramite. So I looked at it as if you had a bunch of shattered tiles or an irregular mosaic.

With your car paint example, you may want to highlight more of the edges than I did as the paint kind of curls and lifts along many sides at once, but the technique should work. Fenrir1997 wrote:Crackle medium is a tough cookie to play with at the scale we use it at. As stated above, get your trial and error notebook ready, and a couple spare pencils (with erasers!) Grab a few different acrylic crackle mediums, read the directions, and get going on a few spare shoulder pads or some-such. Good luck dude, I didn't succeed, then again I gave up a tad easy on this 1.

Same as this really! I bought it and played with it for ages, managed to get a kneepad to crackle but nothing since!